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Choose your climateBased on winter hardiness only.

Tree · Rosaceae family

Common pear

Pyrus communis

Full sun in a garden ~11 ft 5¾ in × 8 ft 2⅜ in–11 ft 5¾ in Flowers April Harvest August–October to −93 °F
Flower colors Click a color

In short a 10-second read

SunFull sun
in a garden after 10 years~11 ft 5¾ in
in the wild up to 49.2 ft
spacing 16 ft 4⅞ in
FlowersApril
PlantingMarch–April, October–November
PruningNovember–March
WinterNo winter protection

Where to plant and how much to water

Sun, soil and water.

It grows best in full sun, in dry to average soil.

Sun

Sun6 hours or more
Part shade3–6 hours
Shadeunder 3 h

Soil

tolerates any pH
acidicneutralalkaline
dry to averageclayloamysandy

Watering

Common pear — Watering
only in dry spellsless when it rains

Frost

−93 °F
no winter protectionleafless in winter

How much space it takes

Mature size.

The mature plant next to a person (69 in).

3 ft 3⅜ in6 ft 6¾ in9 ft 10⅛ in13 ft 1½ in16 ft 4⅞ in19 ft 8¼ in22 ft 11⅝ in26 ft 3 in29 ft 6⅜ in32.8 ft36.1 ft39.4 ft42.7 ft45.9 ft49.2 ft16 ft 4⅞ in–49.2 ftspread 13 ft 1½ in–29 ft 6⅜ in
16 ft 4⅞ in–49.2 ft× spread 13 ft 1½ in–29 ft 6⅜ in

Plant 16 ft 4⅞ in apart.

The final size depends on the cultivar and the spot — we give the range from smallest to largest.

Calendar

Through the year.

Typical for a temperate climate (four seasons). The line shows the current month.

The year at a glance

Flowers: JanuaryFlowers: FebruaryFlowers: MarchFlowers: AprilFlowers: MayFlowers: JuneFlowers: JulyFlowers: AugustFlowers: SeptemberFlowers: OctoberFlowers: NovemberFlowers: DecemberPlanting: JanuaryPlanting: FebruaryPlanting: MarchPlanting: AprilPlanting: MayPlanting: JunePlanting: JulyPlanting: AugustPlanting: SeptemberPlanting: OctoberPlanting: NovemberPlanting: DecemberFeeding: JanuaryFeeding: FebruaryFeeding: MarchFeeding: AprilFeeding: MayFeeding: JuneFeeding: JulyFeeding: AugustFeeding: SeptemberFeeding: OctoberFeeding: NovemberFeeding: DecemberPruning: JanuaryPruning: FebruaryPruning: MarchPruning: AprilPruning: MayPruning: JunePruning: JulyPruning: AugustPruning: SeptemberPruning: OctoberPruning: NovemberPruning: DecemberHarvest: JanuaryHarvest: FebruaryHarvest: MarchHarvest: AprilHarvest: MayHarvest: JuneHarvest: JulyHarvest: AugustHarvest: SeptemberHarvest: OctoberHarvest: NovemberHarvest: DecemberJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
FlowersPlantingFeedingPruningHarvest
Now, in October: time to harvest.
JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

Flowers

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

April · white

Planting

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

container plant: March–April, October–November; bare-root: March–April, October–November

Feeding

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

May–June

Pruning

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

remove dead and crossing branches (November–March)

Harvest

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

August–October

What to plant now (October) full list in October (243) →

Feeding

Nutrition.

Horn meal

up to 0.18 oz/sq ft a year, if the soil needs it · May–June

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

Pruning

When and how to prune.

Typical for a temperate climate (four seasons).

Common pear — Remove dead and crossing branches

Remove dead and crossing branches

NovDecJanFebMar
How to prunePrune moderately: dead, diseased and damaged wood, crossing and congested shoots, shoots growing in the wrong direction. Note: hard pruning spoils it.

Pests and diseases

Common problems and what to do.

The most common problems in Central Europe. Protection is listed from the gentlest option.

High riskMedium riskLow riskRisk for this plant according to the source · no label = no documented level
Fire blight

Fire blight

Erwinia amylovora
High riskdisease
More about this problem

What you will see

Blossoms and shoots suddenly turn black and hang as if scorched, sticky white fluid oozes from the infections; sunken cankers form.

The source says: it can be devastating to pears.

When to look

From late spring to fall

How to protect

  1. Prevention
    • Watch out for warm, damp springs; do not over-feed with nitrogen.
  2. By hand once detected; prune in winter dormancyCut out the infection 11¾–23½ in below the visible damage, expose the bark and check for brown staining; disinfect tools after every cut; burn the material.
  3. By hand after the main floweringRemove late secondary blossoms before they open.
Fire blightdisease · from late spring to fallHigh risk

What you will see

Blossoms and shoots suddenly turn black and hang as if scorched, sticky white fluid oozes from the infections; sunken cankers form.

The source says: it can be devastating to pears.

When to look

From late spring to fall

How to protect

  1. Prevention
    • Watch out for warm, damp springs; do not over-feed with nitrogen.
  2. By hand once detected; prune in winter dormancyCut out the infection 11¾–23½ in below the visible damage, expose the bark and check for brown staining; disinfect tools after every cut; burn the material.
  3. By hand after the main floweringRemove late secondary blossoms before they open.
More about this problem
Codling moth

Codling moth

Cydia pomonella
High riskpest
More about this problem

What you will see

Caterpillars bore into fruit; damaged fruit has tunnels and usually drops prematurely.

The source says: it can be the worst pest of pears, especially in warm, dry areas.

When to look

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
June–September

How to protect

  1. Prevention
    • Tolerate a small loss of fruit; encourage birds, wasps and ground beetles.
    • Remove fallen fruit and abandoned host trees (apple, pear, walnut) in the neighborhood.
  2. By hand from early MayPheromone traps (in early May) show the timing for further measures; traps alone usually do not protect the crop.
  3. By hand after harvest until springTrunk bands as a pupation shelter: put them on before pupation and remove them before the adult moths emerge. On small trees, remove infested fruit continuously.
  4. Biological September–OctoberEntomopathogenic nematodes on the trunk, branches and soil after the caterpillars have left the fruit.
  5. Chemical — only when nothing else helpsA product authorized in your country against codling moth (Cydia pomonella) (as per the label; only if the other steps are not enough).
Codling mothpest · June–SeptemberHigh risk

What you will see

Caterpillars bore into fruit; damaged fruit has tunnels and usually drops prematurely.

The source says: it can be the worst pest of pears, especially in warm, dry areas.

When to look

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
June–September

How to protect

  1. Prevention
    • Tolerate a small loss of fruit; encourage birds, wasps and ground beetles.
    • Remove fallen fruit and abandoned host trees (apple, pear, walnut) in the neighborhood.
  2. By hand from early MayPheromone traps (in early May) show the timing for further measures; traps alone usually do not protect the crop.
  3. By hand after harvest until springTrunk bands as a pupation shelter: put them on before pupation and remove them before the adult moths emerge. On small trees, remove infested fruit continuously.
  4. Biological September–OctoberEntomopathogenic nematodes on the trunk, branches and soil after the caterpillars have left the fruit.
  5. Chemical — only when nothing else helpsA product authorized in your country against codling moth (Cydia pomonella) (as per the label; only if the other steps are not enough).
More about this problem
Pear psylla

Pear psylla

Cacopsylla pyricola
High riskpest

What you will see

Honeydew and sooty mold on leaves and fruit (fruit russeting); damaged parts of leaves turn black, leaves may yellow and drop. Eggs are tiny and yellowish, on fruit stalks and leaves.

The source says: it is one of the most serious insect pests of pears.

How to protect

  1. Prevention
    • Keep the population low all year – high numbers are hard to manage; reduce overwintering adults before egg-laying.
    • Do not use broad-spectrum insecticides – they destroy natural enemies.
  2. Biological the whole growing seasonEncourage lacewings, brown lacewings and Orius bugs (minute pirate bugs); natural enemies alone may not be enough.
  3. Gentle spray from leaf fall to the end of January/February (start of egg-laying)Horticultural oil in winter dormancy kills overwintering adults (not the eggs, but it lowers egg-laying for ~a month); apply from leaf fall to the start of egg-laying, in warm, sunny weather.
Pear psyllapestHigh risk

What you will see

Honeydew and sooty mold on leaves and fruit (fruit russeting); damaged parts of leaves turn black, leaves may yellow and drop. Eggs are tiny and yellowish, on fruit stalks and leaves.

The source says: it is one of the most serious insect pests of pears.

How to protect

  1. Prevention
    • Keep the population low all year – high numbers are hard to manage; reduce overwintering adults before egg-laying.
    • Do not use broad-spectrum insecticides – they destroy natural enemies.
  2. Biological the whole growing seasonEncourage lacewings, brown lacewings and Orius bugs (minute pirate bugs); natural enemies alone may not be enough.
  3. Gentle spray from leaf fall to the end of January/February (start of egg-laying)Horticultural oil in winter dormancy kills overwintering adults (not the eggs, but it lowers egg-laying for ~a month); apply from leaf fall to the start of egg-laying, in warm, sunny weather.
Pear rust

Pear rust

Gymnosporangium sabinae
Medium riskdiseasesource covers the whole genus
More about this problem

What you will see

Bright orange spots on the upper side of leaves, later brown outgrowths on the underside; it also needs juniper.

The source says: it is among the susceptible hosts of pear rust.

When to look

In summer and early fall

How to protect

  1. Prevention
    • Remove junipers (Juniperus) near pear trees.
  2. By handCut out cankers on juniper; cut out affected pear branches.

Fungicides are not recommended; no readily available fungicide effectively controls rust on edible pears.

Pear rustdisease · in summer and early fallMedium risk

What you will see

Bright orange spots on the upper side of leaves, later brown outgrowths on the underside; it also needs juniper.

The source says: it is among the susceptible hosts of pear rust.

When to look

In summer and early fall

How to protect

  1. Prevention
    • Remove junipers (Juniperus) near pear trees.
  2. By handCut out cankers on juniper; cut out affected pear branches.

Fungicides are not recommended; no readily available fungicide effectively controls rust on edible pears.

More about this problem
Pear scab

Pear scab

Venturia pirina
Low riskdisease

What you will see

Dark spots on leaves and fruit, similar to apple scab.

The source says: it is rarely a problem on pears.

How to protect

  1. Prevention
    • Collect fallen leaves from around the base of the tree and remove them.
  2. By hand fallSanitation: remove diseased leaves and fruit.
Pear scabdiseaseLow risk

What you will see

Dark spots on leaves and fruit, similar to apple scab.

The source says: it is rarely a problem on pears.

How to protect

  1. Prevention
    • Collect fallen leaves from around the base of the tree and remove them.
  2. By hand fallSanitation: remove diseased leaves and fruit.
Sources (10)

Frequently asked

Quick answers.

When does common pear flower?

In April; the flowers are white.

When is common pear harvested?

In August–October.

Does common pear tolerate shade?

No, it needs full sun.

How much space does common pear need?

At maturity 13 ft 1½ in–29 ft 6⅜ in wide and 16 ft 4⅞ in–49.2 ft tall; recommended spacing 16 ft 4⅞ in.

Fire blight — what can you do?

Watch out for warm, damp springs; do not over-feed with nitrogen. Cut out the infection 11¾–23½ in below the visible damage, expose the bark and check for brown staining; disinfect tools after every cut; burn the material.

Pear scab — what can you do?

Collect fallen leaves from around the base of the tree and remove them. Sanitation: remove diseased leaves and fruit.

Sources (17) Checked 24 October 2026

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19 ft 8¼ in–49.2 ft × 16 ft 4⅞ in–22 ft 11⅝ in
Low maintenancetree
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